Grasmere to Patterdale

Thursday August 25, 2016

We were promised and easier day today - and it was. We left Grasmere at about 8:30 AM and arrived at "old Water View" by about 2:30 PM. The day was cool and overcast, but the expected rain did not materialize. I have now enjoyed a shower (and washed my sox) and enjoyed a cup of coffee and have time to update the blog before dinner. I will also go back and add to previous day blogs that are a bit short on detail because I was just too tired.

Rain forecast for today - it did not happen. There was an outdoor store in this little town so I was able to buy some gaiters.

Today was a simple day - a climb of 2,200' over about 5 km and then a reasonable down slope to Patterdale for a total of 11.5 km. Three of the girls (ladies?) took the day of to help their feet recover. Diane had a terrible blister on a toe - she would not let me photo it. Julie has a bunch of blisters. Jan (who is 79!) just needed a break.

We are all getting a bit desperate re washing cloths. In general I brought a "set of 7" and today was the 8th day. I am saturated with sweat each evening, my clothing is just not reusable. There have been no laundry facilities. I have started washing gear in the bath/shower.

(Only 3 photos - the internet here is just too slow)

More waterfalls

Bob and Sharon

Our digs tonight

Rostwaite to Grasmere

Wednesday August 24, 2016

Today was meant to be an easy day - maybe 5 hours - but it ended up about 9 hours of steep country. The total distance was "only" about 14.6 km, but "we" made a navigation decision that probably added a few to that total.

Started easy enough, following the Stonethwaite beck (a "beck" is a river. Why they don't call them rivers is beyond me, after all we are in England!) But the route got steeper and steeper and turned into a real slog. In effect, we were walking into a "blind" mountain valley, and at the "end" needed to climb over a high pass to get over a saddle into the next valley (after which we expected the route to be basically down hill). After about 8 km we made it up and over.

The valley started off rather "bucolic" but as we climbed it became rough and unproductive. This has been typical of the last couple of days walks. There was less "bog" today so that was a pleasant break.

Most of the scenery we see is our feet and about 10' of train in front of us. The trails are very rough and rocky, often interrupted by a small "beck" tumbling down the side of the mountain, that you have to rock-hop over. We need to remind ourselves to stop and look at the scenery which has been pretty good. I tend to take photos from the high ground of the "pretty scenes" well below us.

Over the last few days we seem to be splitting up more on the trail. Sharon, Horishi, Keiko and I seem to be up front. The three ladies with blisters tend to hang back a bit. Bryce and Richard have been feeling the climbs a bit more - apparently Richard used to be a smoker!

Because we had expected a short day, none of us had brought lunch. We ended up stopping at Mere beck where the trail split - the "High Trail" and the "Low Trail". We all had 'emergency rations" of some sort and sat down for a break and shared.

Navigation seems to be a constant issue for some in the group. "One of our ladies" tends to ask every passer-by where they came from, where they are going and what way is it to XYZ? Plus she tends to hand her guide book or map to each of us and ask where we are and where we need to go. The trouble with asking multiple people those questions is that you get as many answers, which just causes confusion.

The low trail was reported as boggy, the high trail as offering great views. We (Sharon, Horishi and Keiko) decide to take the high trail around the ridge and avoid the soft ground. All ended up happily, but it turned out to be hard going which lots of sharp climbs.

Keiko.

These stone fences are everywhere. 

On the trail

Taking a break

You can see the "bogs" in these photos

No kidding, I was buggered.

Our destination

As soon as we arrived in this little town we found the pub. It was nice enough to sit in the sun
From the left around the table: Julie, Diane, Richard, Bryce, Wes, Bob & Sharon

Ennerdale Bridge to Rostwaite

Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Long day today, but a great day. I am typing this on Wednesday night. The hotel we stayed at last night did not have any wifi. And I am finding it hard to remember what we achieved Tuesday.

Started off about 8:15 AM. The B&B in Ennerdale Bridge had been rather nice, although everything is pretty compact and there is just not a lot of space for two cases in the room. Breakfast was the "usual" huge "full English breakfast" that was really starting to plug me up.

The morning was heavily overcast but not raining. We headed West in full rain gear, prepared for the worst. After a mile or so our track took us along the South side of Ennerdale water for a few miles until we made it to the river that fed the lake, and we followed that river up to its source in the mountains.

Our path along the river started out as a narrow goat track partially hidden in 3' high wet bracken, so our wet gear served its purpose. I envied those with gaitors - especially the knee high variety. As the lake ended and the river started we began to climb steadily. The track connected us to a rough road and that made the going easier, but still up hill. The scenery was rather pretty with lots of photo ops. I was walking with Diane, who set a rather steady pace. She just did not stop.

Diane under way.

The road deteriorated into a track and we climbed further into the mountains. By about mid day we arrived at a 'shepherds hut" called "Black Sail" where we took a break and ate the brown bag lunches prepared at the B&B.

From Black Sail the track continued to climb ad was very rough. There were lots of little creeks running down the mountain and crossing the path. We were in a blind valley and discovered the way out was a 45 degree (not kidding) climb for about 1,000 feet. Our walking poles were no use, by and large we had to use our hands in the scramble up.

Creek crossing

Creek "up"

Creek "Down"

Adding a stone to the cairn at the top of THE CLIMB

We were all hoping for a down hill walk from the top, but we were looking at "Martian" plateau of bog and rock outcrops. The way forward was marked by cairns of stones. The bog was quite awkward to get thru. It was often covered with a very think matting of grass that tended to sink when you stood on it. Getting water in your boots is a bit of a death sentence for your feet - wet feet equals blisters.

It seemed to take an age to make it to the Hotel.