DAY 19: The WEST FRENCH RIVIERA, The GRAND MASSIVE, DIGNE

 Monday April 24, 2023

Another nice day. We skipped the $38 Euro breakfast and headed east along the coast road until we found a local patisserie/boulangerie with a few seats in the sun. 

The coastal road was in great shape but just two lanes. For such a wealthy and impressive area I am amazed that such a small road can manage. It was a sunny day but I assume the cool wind kept the beach goers away.

The scenery as we wound around the coast was great. It was hard to get good photos because stopping was almost impossible. Very rocky coastline with little beaches tucked in from time to time. Some of the residences were quite impressive. There was very little retail in view. In places the fast train followed the coast, and that was impressive. 

We followed the coastal road about 6o km to Cannes. It must have taken 2 hours because it was busy, windy (as in lots of curves) and we stopped for photos when we found a spot. By the time we got to Cannes I was a bit buggered, so we parked in town - and - (surprise, surprise) found a place for a healthy lunch in the sun. 

Lots and lots of marinas and boats all the way

Lunch selection in Cannes

Down town in Cannes.

We needed to get to Digne at a reasonable hour, so we decided to give Nice a miss and head inland. 

That was a good decision because the "road" between Cannes and Grasse was extremely hard work. It was only about 20 kms, but it took us over an hour and we got "lost" a couple of times. We eventually got through Grasse and the road opened up a bit as we climbed back into mountains. We both needed a bathroom stop and maybe a drink or an ice cream, but now we seemed in a service desert. But we eventually found a "shed" that met part of our needs, and we split an eclair left over from lunch.

(I like the eclairs my mum and sisters make. The French seem chocolate crazy, and the two eclairs I have tried are filled with gooey chocolate flavored stuff rather than fresh cream. Disgusting!)

Still eating our lunch selection, hours later. The French sure know how to destroy an éclair.

Our route to Digne now took us through some pretty serious mountains (as usual, on a narrow and windy roads). It was becoming rather obvious to me that the French have not yet grasped the idea that the shortest distance between two places is a straight line. But we had plenty of time and the scenery was great.

Another thing. Once you are out of the city, the French seem to assume that you are not going to need gas/petrol food/drinks or a toilet. But eventually we found a place to stop for refreshments. (Maybe that is another reason why they are so slim?)

Afternoon beer and chips

Lotsa big rocks

Eventually we rolled into Digne and found out B&B for the night. Not quite what I had expected, but certainly clean and well furnished with a charming hostess and cute, well behaved dog. 

We walked into downtown for dinner. It was Monday night so most places were closed. (Of course, silly me.) (We have also noted that the cafes in Uzes that offer breakfast don't seem to open until about 11 AM.)

We found one Brasserie open, but only offering "tapas" that night. We decided we could manage and ate well enough.

Approaching Digne

DAY 18: AIX and SAINT TROPEZ

Sunday April 23, 2023

Overall, the drive south and east to Saint Tropez was 20% local roads then 60% freeway, the last 20% on a narrow winding road thru the coastal ranges down to the town. As usual, the weather was sunny with blue sky and a coolish breeze. 

At about 50% of the overall distance we exited the freeway and popped into Aix-en-Provence for lunch. (We had fun watching a TV series called "Murder in Aix") and so were motivated to "pop in" and check out the setting. Sweater on in the shade and off in the sun. We were only in town for a couple of hours.

Robert taking a photo of Deidre taking a photo in AIX

Robert holding in his gut in AIX

Lunch in AIX

Main drag in AIX

We were back on the freeway by about 3PM. With about 20 miles to go we were off the freeway onto a single lane (each way) road that wound its way thru the coastal mountains to the Mediterranean and Saint Tropez.  It surprised me that such a well known resort would be served by such a minor road. But there was not much traffic and the drive was quite scenic.

In Saint Tropez there was a decent amount of parking along the coast and reasonably close to the "old town". We wandered along the coastal path and took in the busy view. Great people watching, but still no Brigitte Bardot. I was expecting lots of fancy boats plus some  Russian oligarchs, but not so much.

Of course we stopped for a snack in a fancy place and to watch the people coming and going. It was way to expensive, so we just had a drink each and some guacamole and chips (and maybe a pavlova to share) and then waited for our bill with my usual "L'addition, pour favor, mate". (Being multi-lingual, I tend to get my languages confused.)

But we waited and waited and waited. He just never came. We needed to get going, so we decided to speed him up by packing up our stuff and leaving. That worked better then I expected and he was a bit upset and his English improved.  My phone told him "Nous pensions que tu etais alle au lit". 

Our hotel was on the other side of the bay. It was a small Best Western and very nice, but we did not get a view of the bay. But there was a patio on our floor at the front of the hotel, and that provided a great view.

 We walked into Sainte-Maxime for dinner and it was OK.

DAY 17: BARB & DON LEAVE, MARKET DAY

 4/22/23

Barb wanted crepes for her breakfast, so we walked down to the main street but the two creperies were closed. But why? Its Market day and Saturday? Who knows?

They needed to get going so we walked back home for a fast coffee and bite, and they headed off.

Deidre and strolled the market. On Saturdays its huge, involving the main street plus the squares and the side streets. We bought a few bits and pieces. I tried on a beret, but it was too expensive.

Tomorrow we are heading off for a three day tour of the south-east.

DAY 16: A visit to Les Baux-de-Provence

 April 21, 2023

This morning we headed off to Les Baux-de-Provence, which is a "really really old" village and fortress on top of a very steep hill. (Yes, another one.) It was about an hours drive away. 

Don and Barb had visited in their previous life and recalled it as a quiet and interesting place. But 25 years later it was bustling with tourists. We dropped the girls off near the village and headed of to park the car - about a mile away - and walked back - uphill.

It certainly was an interesting place, if not a bit touristy. In effect, visiting this part of France seems all about finding different and interesting places to have lunch, and after a bit of a walk around that is what we did. And a bit of shopping. Overall it was another charming place. 

Our lunch spot was on the side of a cliff or wall. We had crepes for desert.

There were lots of steep hills and stairs but Deidre did really well.

And I added Trebuchets to my vocab.

DAY 15: Visit Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie

Thursday, April 20, 2023

Quiet morning. Don and I went for a walk down to the local river/park/gorge. 

Later in the morning we headed north (just a few miles) to Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie. Apparently this village was the local source of pottery. Of course we arrived around midday when everything was closed. So, of course, we found a delightful café in the sun and enjoyed a long lunch. 

Only a few places opened (It's not summer yet!) and after 15 minutes we were done. We walked around the village a bit then headed home.

Barb headed of to a local laundry-mat with her washing. It rained on her way home.

Deidre made Shepard's Pie for dinner. She had to compromise the contents a bit, but it was great. All 4 of us agreed it was the best dinner so far in France. Oh dear!

Friendly dog.

I asked Deidre to stand under the arch, but she declined.
Wise girl.

Last night Margaret and Geoff called from Australia. They are recovering well. Good news. 

DAY 14: CASSIS

Wednesday April 19, 2023

Big day today, we drove to a coastal village, a little south and east of Marseilles, called Cassis. Barb and Don remembered this place from their various postings in France while Don was in the air force. 

Cassis is a 2+ hour drive from Uzes, which seems to be a lot of driving in France. I unsuccessfully tried to count all the roundabouts. But is was a perfect sunny day and a bit warmer than the last week or so. 

The castle/Maison over looking the bay

The shore front

Lots and lots of crowded bars and cafes

Barb showing us her new teeth

Deidre drinking her non-alcoholic Pina Carlotta

The Harbor

 Cassis was a delightful place. Apparently it had changed a bit in the last 30 years. We found a table for 4 in the sun and dragged out our lunch for a couple of hours.

We shopped at a big supermarket on the way home. Deidre and Barb cooked dinner. After dinner we played cards ("500") and amazingly the Boys won. 

PS: I read his morning that Margaret and Geoff has contracted COVID. I think I read that Margaret is showing good signs of recovery, Geoff is a day or so behind her. Fast recovery for both of you. Bob & Deidre

GENERAL THOUGHTS ABOUT FRANCE & the FRENCH

As the days go by we have observations and experiences on a variety of topics that really don't relate to daily activities and so I have decided to devote a SPECIAL PAGE to these thoughts as they happen.

THE FRENCH PEOPLE

4/17/23

Have been overwhelmingly friendly and helpful! Not even the conductor that refused to hold up the TGV for Deidre in Lyon was not officious or grumpy. Generally we make an honest attempt to speak a bit of French and we usually get a bit of a laugh in exchange, and then an immediate switch to English. 

The French people are amazingly slim. It really is quite amazing, especially when you observe their food and drinking habits. And as a result there is an amazing supply of good looking ladies. Not sure about the men (they do seem to have long noses) but I will ask Deidre.

They are also quiet in public, compared to the USA. In the train and in the restaurants they seem to talk in whispers. Such a pleasant change from eating and traveling at home. (Especially for Deidre the school teacher, who hates unnecessary noise.) Also, they do not sniff in public.

In general, the French seem to dress with some class. No baggy torn-up un-hemmed jeans with dirty sneakers. So nice.

Public bathrooms are a bit interesting. At CDG one needed a Euro coin to enter. Often the main door is wide open. When we were waiting for the train at Gare de Lyon, Kylie and I grabbed a beer at the posh hotel next door. Before leaving for the train I took a preventative pee in the hotel men's. The general door was wide open but I paid no attention and concentrated on the task at hand (Its necessary these days). As I got the flow going I noticed that there was a cleaning lady mopping the floor. Apparently I was in her way so I moved to one side while she mopped under that side, and at her direction moved the other side as needed. All the time being careful not to splash. That was a first.

4/20/23: One thing Deidre notices is that 75% of French female clothing is black. Which is good because I can easily find Deidre in a crowd. 

5/5/23: The French do not stand in lines. They are polite but mill about. I find it frustrating.

EATING OUT

4/17/23

Has been a bit disappointing so far, but that will probably change. There are hundreds of eating and drinking outside bars and cafes that are highly attended. They offer some food, but that is probably the equivalent to Australian "pub food". Now I think we have discovered that REAL restaurants are different - the locations are less obvious and they eat inside. The night before Kylie left I really wanted to arrange a real French dinner. I walked around UZES searching unsuccessfully for a real French restaurant. 

The crepes have been fun, but we cannot exist on just crepes!

But now I have discovered two "hidden" restaurants on our little street that only open for dinner. We have friends arriving today, so we will probably try one out this week.

5/5/23: We have now tried a couple of expensive restaurants and we are still disappointed. Part of the problem is that we cannot read the menus very well. We have now discovered that we can translate the complete menu using a Google Ap, so we will try again in Paris.

THE COUNTRYSIDE

4/17/23

Uzes was a lucky choice. It is a little rural town surrounded by charming country side. I am not at all "poetic" but I really enjoy just driving around this area. 

I suppose its early Spring. (Today is in the low 60's but we have been as high as the low 70's. Its a bit windy - presumably "la Mistral" in effect.) 

The surrounding farmland is mostly devoted to growing grapes, but with some "rape"( its bright yellow, and that's what they call it in England) plus some "grass" type crop that is currently bright-bright green, plus a smattering of olives, fruit trees, strawberries, asparagus and other market garden items.  When we arrived the vineyards basically  looked dead but over the last 10 days we have seen them start to come alive. Most of the roads and towns are lined with trees, especially elms (according to Deidre) and they are also starting to come alive. There is also a large common bush that is bright purple. 

The end result is a cacophony of different greens, indisposed with bright yellow and purple. Everything seems to be well cared for and clean. Not a sign of roadside trash, and just no large advertising billboards like in the USA. Not at all run-down looking like Spain. 

5/5/23: I need to correct the name of the most common trees. They are not elms - but could be sycamores or plane trees. (Depends upon who you ask!)

ROADS and DRIVING (and parking)

4/17/23

French drivers seem quite relaxed and courteous. I have only been "tooted" a couple of times and Deidre deserved it. The only crazy people seem to be the motorcycle crowd. There is no sight of police on the road. (But in Paris they roamed around in groups of 4 to 6 carrying machine guns and looking very serious.) Last week when there was a demonstration downtown, two really nice gendarmes helped us navigate away.  

Navigation is simple but complicated. In any direction there is a round-about every 500 to 2,000 meters. The poor Google lady must get sick of telling me to take the second exit. Car tires must wear out fast here. Don't expect to get 20 miles in 20 minutes, its just not possible. The good thing is that you can just drive around the roundabout again if you miss the exit. I know. 

The way that the Google lady pronounces the French names is hilarious - not that we know much better. 

4/22/23: A few days ago I received a notice via email and in French. After a bit of work I discovered to be a parking ticket, relating to our second visit to Avignon. I had parked on undeveloped public property, adjacent to a parking lot that a) was full and b) where it was obvious that payment was expected. Back in the USA it would be worth a protest........

5/5/23: I have driven on the highways a bit more lately. Drivers are frustrated if you do not drive at least at the speed limit. If they decide you are too slow they follow right up behind you. When they are able to overtake they show their displeasure by moving back into the lane and almost cutting you off.

OUR HOUSE

The house is a blast. Its only about 12' wide, about 40' deep and has 4 floors. The bottom floor is only used for storage. The house is built from large stones. The front door opens directly onto the street. How the stair case defeats gravity is a mystery to me. Our house on the IOP is a bit the same layout, except that this place only has one toilet, which is 2 levels up from the "living area" and we have to climb two levels to go to bed.

After some effort we have now conquered all the appliances except the dishwasher. The toaster is 100% weird and would not be allowed in the USA. 

The water supply has volume but not pressure. So if you turn on the tap in the kitchen the shower just stops flowing. The hot water is wickedly hot.

We have only popped the breakers once. I eventually isolated one circuit that solved the problem, but have still not identified what it served. 

The toilet is electrical, just like on TideHiker, but not as effective. The lav has no window and tends to get a bit stinky so we keep doors and windows open on that level. 

Our street is narrow (about 12') but wider than most. We are about 50 yards from the main road. There is a hydraulicly operated post that keeps most cars out (including ours). There is a senior school 100 yards up the street so we get a lot of fun kid traffic morning and afternoon. There is a cheese shop on our corner. 

There is miscellaneous street parking about 400 yards away, but its "first in best dressed", plus we have to remember where we parked.  We have been lucky so far.