DAY 19: The WEST FRENCH RIVIERA, The GRAND MASSIVE, DIGNE

 Monday April 24, 2023

Another nice day. We skipped the $38 Euro breakfast and headed east along the coast road until we found a local patisserie/boulangerie with a few seats in the sun. 

The coastal road was in great shape but just two lanes. For such a wealthy and impressive area I am amazed that such a small road can manage. It was a sunny day but I assume the cool wind kept the beach goers away.

The scenery as we wound around the coast was great. It was hard to get good photos because stopping was almost impossible. Very rocky coastline with little beaches tucked in from time to time. Some of the residences were quite impressive. There was very little retail in view. In places the fast train followed the coast, and that was impressive. 

We followed the coastal road about 6o km to Cannes. It must have taken 2 hours because it was busy, windy (as in lots of curves) and we stopped for photos when we found a spot. By the time we got to Cannes I was a bit buggered, so we parked in town - and - (surprise, surprise) found a place for a healthy lunch in the sun. 

Lots and lots of marinas and boats all the way

Lunch selection in Cannes

Down town in Cannes.

We needed to get to Digne at a reasonable hour, so we decided to give Nice a miss and head inland. 

That was a good decision because the "road" between Cannes and Grasse was extremely hard work. It was only about 20 kms, but it took us over an hour and we got "lost" a couple of times. We eventually got through Grasse and the road opened up a bit as we climbed back into mountains. We both needed a bathroom stop and maybe a drink or an ice cream, but now we seemed in a service desert. But we eventually found a "shed" that met part of our needs, and we split an eclair left over from lunch.

(I like the eclairs my mum and sisters make. The French seem chocolate crazy, and the two eclairs I have tried are filled with gooey chocolate flavored stuff rather than fresh cream. Disgusting!)

Still eating our lunch selection, hours later. The French sure know how to destroy an éclair.

Our route to Digne now took us through some pretty serious mountains (as usual, on a narrow and windy roads). It was becoming rather obvious to me that the French have not yet grasped the idea that the shortest distance between two places is a straight line. But we had plenty of time and the scenery was great.

Another thing. Once you are out of the city, the French seem to assume that you are not going to need gas/petrol food/drinks or a toilet. But eventually we found a place to stop for refreshments. (Maybe that is another reason why they are so slim?)

Afternoon beer and chips

Lotsa big rocks

Eventually we rolled into Digne and found out B&B for the night. Not quite what I had expected, but certainly clean and well furnished with a charming hostess and cute, well behaved dog. 

We walked into downtown for dinner. It was Monday night so most places were closed. (Of course, silly me.) (We have also noted that the cafes in Uzes that offer breakfast don't seem to open until about 11 AM.)

We found one Brasserie open, but only offering "tapas" that night. We decided we could manage and ate well enough.

Approaching Digne

DAY 18: AIX and SAINT TROPEZ

Sunday April 23, 2023

Overall, the drive south and east to Saint Tropez was 20% local roads then 60% freeway, the last 20% on a narrow winding road thru the coastal ranges down to the town. As usual, the weather was sunny with blue sky and a coolish breeze. 

At about 50% of the overall distance we exited the freeway and popped into Aix-en-Provence for lunch. (We had fun watching a TV series called "Murder in Aix") and so were motivated to "pop in" and check out the setting. Sweater on in the shade and off in the sun. We were only in town for a couple of hours.

Robert taking a photo of Deidre taking a photo in AIX

Robert holding in his gut in AIX

Lunch in AIX

Main drag in AIX

We were back on the freeway by about 3PM. With about 20 miles to go we were off the freeway onto a single lane (each way) road that wound its way thru the coastal mountains to the Mediterranean and Saint Tropez.  It surprised me that such a well known resort would be served by such a minor road. But there was not much traffic and the drive was quite scenic.

In Saint Tropez there was a decent amount of parking along the coast and reasonably close to the "old town". We wandered along the coastal path and took in the busy view. Great people watching, but still no Brigitte Bardot. I was expecting lots of fancy boats plus some  Russian oligarchs, but not so much.

Of course we stopped for a snack in a fancy place and to watch the people coming and going. It was way to expensive, so we just had a drink each and some guacamole and chips (and maybe a pavlova to share) and then waited for our bill with my usual "L'addition, pour favor, mate". (Being multi-lingual, I tend to get my languages confused.)

But we waited and waited and waited. He just never came. We needed to get going, so we decided to speed him up by packing up our stuff and leaving. That worked better then I expected and he was a bit upset and his English improved.  My phone told him "Nous pensions que tu etais alle au lit". 

Our hotel was on the other side of the bay. It was a small Best Western and very nice, but we did not get a view of the bay. But there was a patio on our floor at the front of the hotel, and that provided a great view.

 We walked into Sainte-Maxime for dinner and it was OK.

DAY 17: BARB & DON LEAVE, MARKET DAY

 4/22/23

Barb wanted crepes for her breakfast, so we walked down to the main street but the two creperies were closed. But why? Its Market day and Saturday? Who knows?

They needed to get going so we walked back home for a fast coffee and bite, and they headed off.

Deidre and strolled the market. On Saturdays its huge, involving the main street plus the squares and the side streets. We bought a few bits and pieces. I tried on a beret, but it was too expensive.

Tomorrow we are heading off for a three day tour of the south-east.

DAY 16: A visit to Les Baux-de-Provence

 April 21, 2023

This morning we headed off to Les Baux-de-Provence, which is a "really really old" village and fortress on top of a very steep hill. (Yes, another one.) It was about an hours drive away. 

Don and Barb had visited in their previous life and recalled it as a quiet and interesting place. But 25 years later it was bustling with tourists. We dropped the girls off near the village and headed of to park the car - about a mile away - and walked back - uphill.

It certainly was an interesting place, if not a bit touristy. In effect, visiting this part of France seems all about finding different and interesting places to have lunch, and after a bit of a walk around that is what we did. And a bit of shopping. Overall it was another charming place. 

Our lunch spot was on the side of a cliff or wall. We had crepes for desert.

There were lots of steep hills and stairs but Deidre did really well.

And I added Trebuchets to my vocab.

DAY 15: Visit Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie

Thursday, April 20, 2023

Quiet morning. Don and I went for a walk down to the local river/park/gorge. 

Later in the morning we headed north (just a few miles) to Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie. Apparently this village was the local source of pottery. Of course we arrived around midday when everything was closed. So, of course, we found a delightful café in the sun and enjoyed a long lunch. 

Only a few places opened (It's not summer yet!) and after 15 minutes we were done. We walked around the village a bit then headed home.

Barb headed of to a local laundry-mat with her washing. It rained on her way home.

Deidre made Shepard's Pie for dinner. She had to compromise the contents a bit, but it was great. All 4 of us agreed it was the best dinner so far in France. Oh dear!

Friendly dog.

I asked Deidre to stand under the arch, but she declined.
Wise girl.

Last night Margaret and Geoff called from Australia. They are recovering well. Good news. 

DAY 14: CASSIS

Wednesday April 19, 2023

Big day today, we drove to a coastal village, a little south and east of Marseilles, called Cassis. Barb and Don remembered this place from their various postings in France while Don was in the air force. 

Cassis is a 2+ hour drive from Uzes, which seems to be a lot of driving in France. I unsuccessfully tried to count all the roundabouts. But is was a perfect sunny day and a bit warmer than the last week or so. 

The castle/Maison over looking the bay

The shore front

Lots and lots of crowded bars and cafes

Barb showing us her new teeth

Deidre drinking her non-alcoholic Pina Carlotta

The Harbor

 Cassis was a delightful place. Apparently it had changed a bit in the last 30 years. We found a table for 4 in the sun and dragged out our lunch for a couple of hours.

We shopped at a big supermarket on the way home. Deidre and Barb cooked dinner. After dinner we played cards ("500") and amazingly the Boys won. 

PS: I read his morning that Margaret and Geoff has contracted COVID. I think I read that Margaret is showing good signs of recovery, Geoff is a day or so behind her. Fast recovery for both of you. Bob & Deidre