Saturday, March 15, 2014

Marsh Harbour

Saturday March 15, 2014
26 32.819 N
77 03.186 W

This seems to be our new routine. Up at 6:15 AM, underway at 7:00 AM, sunrise at 7:15 AM. We wanted to hit "The Whale" at high tide/slack (7:59 AM) to avoid one potential contribution to rough conditions. The sky was overcast and it was raining lightly on and off. I am starting to like this time of day. The water was totally still in the sound, its quiet (except for the local roosters!) and Tide Hiker glided thru the sound and out thru the channel.

Sunrise
"The Whale" is a passage from the Sea of Abaco out into the Atlantic that we must take in order to progress further south towards Marsh Harbour. The passage has a reputation for "rage seas" caused by large swells arriving from the deep Atlantic at this narrow and shallow passage between islands and reefs.It is worse when wind opposes the tide.

We seemed to be the first boat out. There were 5 or 6 boats following us that we were aware of, 3 of them close behind. We hailed for "local knowledge" without success. I had plotted a couple of the recommended course so we felt confident and we plowed on. As Tide Hiker became exposed to the Atlantic we started to roll in 3 to 4 feet swells, with a bit of chop. I took the binocs up to the fly bridge looking for breaking waves, but all seemed clear ahead so we headed thru the opening, our duckings in line behind us. As we rounded the southern end of Whale Cay we could see big spray on the rocks, but that is exciting as it got.

An hour or so later and a few miles north we headed back into the sheltered Sea of Abaco with only 10 miles or so to get to Marsh Harbour. The weather also improved, the sun came out and the clouds rolled away. We hailed the Marina and were tied up by 11:30 AM. I am not very happy with our spot but it seems safe enough, although our bow is sticking out into a busy fairway.

View to shore
When we were settled, Deidre and I headed ashore for lunch. We seem to be right in the middle of "the action". There are several small marinas clustered together, restaurants and shops on the shore. Looks like fun!

Bought some conch salad from a roadside merchant. Could not have been fresher. It is basically raw, but cut fine and marinated in orange and lemon juice. Tried it for dinner and it was "OK" - and we feel OK this morning



Sunday March 16, 2014

Perfect sunny morning. Unloaded the bikes and headed into town. Not much to see, 99% of the stores are closed. Seem to be a lot of car parts stores, and judging from the condition of most cars they are in the right business. Very much looks like a 3rd world place, not much to see and do for the likes of us. Then we "found" Maxwell's super market! Looks like it was transplanted straight out of Miami.  but everything we will ever need.

Back at the boat I tested the dock water - 700 PPM - just like the water maker man said to expect. We decided to turn on the dock water but just for washing etc and cook using bottles water (plenty at Maxwell's $1.50 gallon.)

The pitch
After lunch we were invited to attend a fund raiser managed by the cruising community to send local kids to college. The attraction was the visiting Bahamas symphony orchestra.  At intermission they lined up the 15 kids who had qualified and made their pitch: "Which one of these kids do you select not to send "by your lack of action"?".

The wind came up later in the day and somehow we "dropped a line". Never happened to me before, but it caused us to drift under the Nordhavn behind us and tear our canvas on their anchor. We started and engine and Deidre drove us off as I lifted the anchor. Re-secured with help
Bloody Rokner
of neighbors but a bit of a bummer. As captain I am 100% responsible, but I had complained about the slip and talked to the dock master today (Monday) and he seemed ready to help. We will see.









Monday March 17, 2014 (David's Birthday, St Patricks Day)

First objective today was to get the hot-spot/hub working. I had purchased an unlocked & "international ready" hot-spot plus we have our Verizon hotspot, and Verizon said it would work with a local SIM card. Deidre's phone is also "unlocked". We headed of to the phone store to buy SIM cards for data and phone. The first thing out of the lady's mouth - "This might or might not work - either way, you cannot return it." So we handed over about $90 for a couple of cards and headed home.

Couple of friends dropped in after lunch and offered to help with the dinghy. We have to drop the dinghy on our starboard side, but that is the side on the dock. So we needed to ease the boat to port and make room. It was a bit windy and the way we are secured is a bit awkward so it was a 4 person job, but all went well so now we have the dink to run around in. We did just that and had a look at our surrounds from the water. All 4 or 5 marinas are full, as is the mooring field and the anchorage. We are expecting a big blow Tuesday and people are looking for shelter.

We were invited to participate in the St. Patrick's Day parade. Just wear something green and walk in the "parade" and get a free drink. We did as instructed and joined about 200 boaters walking down the main street for 1/2 a mile or so making noise. We collected our free drink and headed back. I wanted to get the hot spot working.

Tuesday March 18, 2014


Local critter
Stormy day today. Storm arrived right on time. I spent most of the day trying to get the hot spot to work with no success. At lunch we collected a couple of friends and rode over to the Jib Room, a marina across the harbor. Turns out they do not serve lunch. So a couple of beers later finds us riding back to Tide Hiker in the pouring rain. Quiet night on the boat, we watched one of our 500 movies. ("White Squall")





Wednesday March 19, 2014


Beautiful morning. After listening to the morning "Cruisers Net" we headed into Mangoes for breakfast. Yesterday I had asked for help with the Hot Spot and following a suggestion I rode into town and found a "computer store". Very unsophisticated place but I thought a bit of local knowledge might help. I was there for 4 hours with no success.

The whole town/island is a bit like that. Except for the immediate marina area the place is just shabby. Nothing seems "finished" and in good repair. I watched a couple of utility people fixing something and the photo shows the result. The roads are pretty terrible and most buildings need a good scrape and a coat of fresh paint. The people are friendly and generally happy and helpful and very overweight.

Thursday March 20, 2014

Perfect morning. After wasting another hour or so fussing with the computer, we took off in the dinghy with Magnus and Charlotte (also in their dinghy) to explore around the island and do some swimming.

We had some lunch with us and wanted to find a deserted beach to enjoy it. We found a wonderful spot and parked the dinghies in the shallows. We spotted several large rays and sea turtles in the shallow bay. Rather delightful.

On the way back we stopped at Mermaid Reef and did some snorkeling. The reef was as dead as a door nail but there were trillions of fish which made it fun. We had some left over lunch and the fish enjoyed that too.
















That night Magnus and Charlotte came over to Tide Hiker for dinner. We enjoyed cocktails and sunset on the boat deck while I bar-b-qued abd then ate in the Wheel House.

Friday March 20, 2015


Nippers
Another perfect morning. Today we took the ferry over to Great Giana Cay to participate in the Barefoot Man concert at Nippers. The ferry was quite fast and the ride over only took about 35 minutes. The cay had a cute little port town. "Nippers" is a bar that overlooks the Atlantic side of the island. The beach is spectacular, the water a hundred colors of blue. We enjoyed a couple of beers as we waited for the performance to begin. We have been told that the "barefoot man" is the Bahamas answer to Jimmy Buffet

Bill, Robin, Charlotte, Magnus, Deidre on the ferry
The show was "OK" but the place was pretty crowded so we walked to another part of the island and enjoyed late lunch.











The bare foot man and band

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