Keld

August 29, 2016

Big day today, we climbed into the Pennine mountains. The top ridge of this mountain range divide the northern UK watershed between east and west. But the top also has a reputation for bogs and can be difficult to get thru. Today is also the exact middle of our 15 (?) day hike, although we have not made half the distance yet. 

Hmmmm .... that's a problem!

There are a series of cairns built along the top ridge - in fact there are nine called the "Nine Standards". Apparently they are pretty old and have no apparent purpose. Climbing to the top was quite a slog but we were there by lunch. Half way up my camel started to leak. I had to dump all my water.

We took a break and had a snack but delayed lunch until we could get somewhere out of the wind. The tops of English mountains do not seem to drain very well, and we had been warned about the bogs. There are several routes thru the bogs and we had to select the "Green" "Blue" or "Red".

As soon as we started East we got into the peat bogs. Much of the trail was impassable, and so we tended to work in circles to get over each of the channels. Walking on the heavy grass was very wet, but our boots generally did not sink too deep.

But crossing the channels was a challenge as the exposed peat mess was very wet and soft. I now understand those English shows about people getting lost in the moors. There were also little "creeks" up to a foot wide virtually running underground, and hidden under the vegetation, real ankle traps. It took us several hours to make a few miles progress, but it was fun.

Eventually we made it to a new valley where the water had accumulated to make a winding river. We followed the river downstream and conditions improved. I had some water in my boots but otherwise unscathed. We all had some falls.

My lunch. 

Taking a break in the sun for late lunch

Following the river down - quite tricky

We had been hearing what we thought might be gun shots all afternoon. Then we came across a three or four SUVs of guys in uniform of some sort plus some dogs. We were all quite curious An hour later we saw a group of very fancy SUVs - Range Rovers and Audis - approaching the same area on a rough track.

As we moved down the mountains signs of agriculture reappeared. We started seeing signs "scones and jam and cream ahead". By about 4 pm we arrived at a farm that offered all of the above. This was the first time so I was all keen. Turned out that the lady farmer had "one husband, 8 kids and 1,000 sheep" and had written a book accordingly. The "Devonshire Tea" was great.

We asked her about the SUVs and gun shot sounds - she told us they were "grouse shooters" - "its just like the Somme out here sometimes!"

Julie and Bryce

Photo with the shepherd lady

After the scones it was just a slog for the last few miles to Keld.

The trail tended to dissapear

Dinner at the B&B. I was not saying an "oath of loyalty"

This was a great B&B in a very isolated place. There is nothing here. Dinner was excellent.

Tonight I operated on Julie's blisters using my blister kit and some of the products supplied by Kathleen (two slips down from Tide Hiker) She has had all sorts of troubles and has two huge blisters on both heels. (The operation was a success and she walked today)